A SAffer in Denmark (Part 2)

Many people who grew up in South Africa during the 1970s will remember being taught road safety by Daantjie Kat. Daantjie Kat films were shown in the early days of television and he visited our schools. The main rules of the road that were drummed into us were: “Keep left” and when crossing a road, “Look left, look right, then left again.” These rules were so ingrained into me that as an adult, I hardly had to think about them. Then I moved to Europe. It felt a bit strange the first time I got into the front right seat of a car and there was no steering wheel, but I coped with that. I even managed to quell my discomfort when we swung out onto the road, whilst driving on the right. However, when we drove at full speed anti-clockwise into a traffic circle, I had to close my eyes and grip the door handle for dear life! Little in life has seemed “normal” since then.

My son, who is four years old, recently started attending kindergarten. At kindergarten, the children are encouraged to learn through play. The children spend most of their day playing outdoors. There is very little in the way of formal lessons as in Denmark children only start primary school when they are, on average, six years old. Schooling in Denmark is compulsory for children from seven years old to sixteen years old. They have the option of attending pre-school from the age of five. This is very different from the pre-school my son was attending in England where he was already being taught basic writing and number skills in order for him to commence school at a very young age of four. I am very pleased that my son has been given an extra two years in order to simply enjoy being a child.

A weird phenomenon I’ve discovered is that every few months many Danes migrate to the German border towns like Süderlügum. We have done this twice since I’ve been living here. Why? To stock up on cheap booze, sweets and German meats. These German border towns have huge cash and carry type shops catering to the Danes. Each one virtually bursting at the seams with frenzied Danes, pushing along trolley loads of cheap beer, wine and bratwurst.

In South Africa and Britain, we are used to going to the butcher or supermarket and choosing neat little rump steaks or chump chops for our dinner. In Denmark, when you look into the supermarket fridges, you are confronted by huge hunks of cow or sheep or pig. Most immediately conjure up images of medieval meat feasts, or for SAffers, braais you can really get your teeth into!



I read some statistics a few days ago that Denmark is the third largest consumer of ice-cream in the world. This is not surprising. The ice-cream here is amazing! One of the most popular choices is a waffle cone, filled with three (or four!) scoops of different flavours, topped with vanilla soft serve, a fløde bolle (the English cutie pie chocolate) and stuff called “guf”. “Guf” is rather like semi-liquid gooey bright pink marshmallow. A trip to Denmark would be incomplete without sampling one of these.

A SAffer In Denmark (Part 1)

Carlsberg Export, Lego, bacon, butter, pastries, the Little Mermaid and the Danish heroism in helping the Jews during World War II were about the only things I knew about Denmark before I agreed to live there with my Danish fiancé (now my husband). My husband was kind enough to buy me a copy of Xenophobe’s Guide To The Danes (The Globe Pequot Press) and this little book has become my constant reference manual while I try to adjust the new culture I’ve found myself living in.

Denmark is made up of 406 islands, including Bornholm in the Baltic Sea. Greenland and the Faroe Islands in the Atlantic are part of the Kingdom of Denmark but have both been granted home rule. Denmark has a population of about 5,432,335 and life expectancy is between 75 to 80 years (source: http://www.cia.gov/cia/publications/factbook/geos/da.html).

We live on the peninsula connected to Germany, called Jutland. The area we live in is called Djursland. We are surrounded by wind turbines, beautiful rolling countryside and forests and are only a short drive away from countless beaches.

It’s very hard to imagine that the cultured, quietly spoken and dignified people I see walking or cycling around town or sitting in coffee houses were once helmeted warriors intent on pillaging and colonising Britain. This is especially hard to imagine since I’ve learnt of the Dane’s need for hygge, a word without a direct English translation but meaning something akin to cosy or snug or ambience or intimacy. The lighting in Danish homes is soft and dim and is supplemented with the use of candles and real fireplaces. In fact, the use of candles in creating hygge extends way beyond the home and into shops and even our local municipal offices. As a newby to Denmark, I think that huggelig best describes the Danish culture.

However, hugge ends when the Danes go shopping! Then it is push and shove and everyone for him/herself. Neat orderly queues and waiting one’s turn is obviously a British phenomenon and a totally foreign concept to the Danes. After spending five years in polite Britain, this rudeness takes quite some getting used to. In fact, if I accidentally bump into someone and say undskylde, I get some very strange looks!

One of the travel guides I read before coming to Denmark had an entire chapter dedicated to food. Food and drink play a big role in the Danes’ culture. The travel guide warned that it is a good idea to pace oneself whilst enjoying a meal as more is sure to follow. I have since learned that this is very wise advice. The smørrebrød is standard fare at lunch (or brunch or supper in our case). This is an open sandwich liberally topped with all sorts of delicious concoctions. Herring, in a variety of different marinades, is often the “starter” and usually served on a very rough rye bread. Throughout the meal, there will be the need to drink a skål (cheers). At the start of a meal, it is usually a skål with a Danish bitter, a drink made with numerous bitter herbs & spices (think the yuckiest cough mixture you’ve ever tasted). Bitter is even drunk with breakfast!

In South Africa I was spoilt when going grocery shopping by having a packer pack my groceries into bags. In Denmark, there are no packers and no free shopping bags. This means that you need to remember to either take a trolley, even if you only need a bit more than an arm-full of groceries, or remember to take your own bags. I also only discovered that money is rounded up to the next Krone when I foolishly stood waiting for my change. These are things that should be put into some sort of manual for newbies to a country.

As Britain gets tough with new anti-smoking laws, it is quite strange to be in a country where smoking is still so socially accepted. The Danes still smoke comfortably in most public places. One of our local supermarkets has baskets of cigarettes for sale at the cash tills, as you would see chocolates or razor blades on sale in Britain or South Africa. Cigarettes are also relatively cheap compared with prices in Britain.
At the moment I am unable to offer any views on learning Danish or working in Denmark. I am in the limbo state of waiting for my Residence Permit to be granted. EU nationals have the right to remain in Denmark for three months. However, anyone wishing to reside, work or study and remain in Denmark for longer needs to apply for a Residence Permit or Certificate through The Danish Immigration Service. Once this has been granted I will be expected to attend Danish School.

GLOBAL SUPPORT

One of the benefits of living in today’s modern society is that there is some kind of support structure for virtually all aspects of life, whether it is having pre-marriage counselling or a telephone help-line to quit smoking. There is also fantastic support available for one of life’s greatest challenges – immigration.

This support group does not come in the form of social workers or psychotherapists. It is made up of a cross-section of people who have all been through the experience themselves. Most of the members of Global Buzz reached a point in their native country when they had to make the heart wrenching decision to either sell or pack up their belongings, say farewell to loved ones and head for the promise of a better future in a foreign country.

Whilst most “Buzzers” have made their new home in the UK, we also have members in Finland, Denmark, Norway, Germany, USA and Australia. Each new country has offered it’s own benefits and challenges.

One of the most difficult challenges I have discovered is understanding how “The System” in the UK works. From obtaining my National Insurance number to registering with a NHS doctor. The second challenge was homesickness. Unfortunately, when I first arrived in the UK in late 2000, there was very little support or advice available to South African expats. I had also chosen to live in a large city in Britain’s industrial north, where other South Africans were hard to find. There were very few days when I didn’t consider packing up and going back to South Africa.

Then in April 2001, whilst browsing the Internet, I came across a very tiny online community of SAffer expats. Little did I realise then what an important role these people would play in helping me to settle in my new country. I had found my very own support group!

During the next two years, this tiny community grew to include several thousand people, all experiencing similar challenges to the ones I was facing. This group of people included South Africans, Zimbabweans or people with a genuine interest in our beautiful homeland and unique culture.

Many “Buzzers” originated from that first community and we are continually being enriched with the arrival of new members. All play an important role in building this unique support group.
Through our many social gatherings, I have had the privilege of meeting other Global Buzz members. Many have now become dear friends of mine. Without their friendship, support and advice, I could not have found my feet in my new country.